so many lessons follow from taking the sample off the loom…
here’s how it came off – coarse and stiff due to the sericin remaining in the threads.
degumming involves gently simmering with an alkali and a surfactant (soda ash and synthrapol respectively). i used 1 tbsp soda and 2 of synthrapol and cooked for just over an hour.
following degumming 2 things are obvious : the fabric is mush softer and more flexible; it’s also sleazy (i think that’s the technical term :D). the weft threads slide a lot on the warp. part of my degumming was squeezing the cloth between my fingers to remove the jelly-like gum and the threads packed down as you can see above. on drying they were even slidier – they pack down into half the length of the warp. this tells me my sett was too wide – i didn’t have enough warp ends to make any kind of balanced cloth – and the slipperiness of the cleaned silk makes this even more apparent.
the other thing that jumps out is how un-shiny the finished cloth is, especially when compared to the naked warp threads which positively glow. i tried to catch the difference but a photo really doesn’t do it justice.
a couple of changes to my next sample suggested themselves. i doubled the number of warp ends per inch (4 per hole/slot), these threads gather together on the loom, making for a pronounced stripe in the cloth, i’ve no idea if it’s possible they’ll spread themselves out during finishing. i also increased the weight of the weft, in the hope that might produce a more balanced cloth, rather than the weft-face i’ve ended up with. i’ve done a short section with the original weft (2-ply) another with 32-ply to match the 32 threads through each hole and slot (4 x 8-ply threads), and another section with 16-ply (the easiest for me to produce from the threads i already have). i’ve also beaten the weft in harder.
the next sample just needs hemstitching before i can cut it off the loom. something else i can look at is degumming before weaving. the degummed threads are really incredible and more than justify the work it takes to reel the silk, it may well be that weaving simply isn’t the best use of those magical qualities, at least on the equipment i have available.